Monday Review: I Know How to Cook

I Know How to Cook by Ginette Mathiot

Reviewed by Stephanie Dickison

There are few things better than a hefty cookbook that’s alight with possibilities.

One of the best I’ve ever come across is Phaidon’s I Know How to Cook by Ginette Mathiot.

This bible of tradition French home cooking is one of those treasured books that you will continually go back to no matter what the trend or star chef of the moment.

In fact, it’s been a best-seller since its first publication in 1932, so it’s already stood the test of time.  Now that it’s available in English for the first time, just imagine how many years you’ll be relying on it for homemade meals, celebratory party dishes and everyday snacks and desserts. There are more than 1,400 recipes here so it’s going to take you awhile…

The only drawback?  It’s going to take up some room on your cookbook shelf.  But trust me when I say it is damn worth it!

There are many things to love about the book:

The layout - It’s organized by subject and then ingredient, so it’s easy to navigate and also fantastic for those times when you say, “Okay, I’ve got some eggs that need using up.  What can I make for supper?”

The recipes – Despite being a French cookbook, somehow Mathiot has made the recipes accessible,with most of the recipes containing only a handful ingredients and steps. It’s amazing how short the directions are – often just one small paragraph.  For French food, no less!

Nothing too complicated, yet there are indeed fancy dishes to be found.  You can impress your guests without having to spend all day in the kitchen – finally!

The design – The subject pages are colourful and fun images of food, but the photos are what’s going to excite you!  Simple, clean photos showcase dishes such as Eggs with Truffles, Shoulder of Lamb Provencale and Four-berry Gelatin that will inspire you to create dishes that you have thought up until now, were completely beyond you.

The recipes too are laid out spaciously so that you can whip up Creamy Coffee Mousse without feeling overwhelmed or have to squint your way through it.

What I love most about the book is that I’ve always thought that you had to be European or classically-trained or damned patient and have all day to cook French food well.

It turns out that all you really need is a passion for food and cooking and this book, which now resides proudly in my cookbook collection.  I plan on working my way through these classic dishes in the next couple of years.  In fact, I’m going to try for doing one a week.  Why don’t you join me?

I know that we can do it – thank to the lovely Ginette Mathiot and this truly extraordinary book.

Book Review: The Ski Country Cookbook

The Ski Country Cookbook by Barbara Scott-Goodman

Reviewed by Chris Garbutt

I remember driving on the highway through snow covered forests until we reached our chalet by the slopes. We didn’t waste any time – it was straight to the lift for us. After a long day skiing, there was nothing better than returning to our temporary home in the snow and sipping spiced apple cider then eating chili that had been heating all day in the slow cooker.

Okay, I made all that up.

I have only gone downhill skiing once in my life, and I was a train wreck. I don’t think I’ve ever set foot in a ski chalet, But if you, unlike me, are someone who hits the slopes all winter, The Ski Country Cookbook has been created just for you. “The combination of cold mountain air and vigorous activity naturally makes us crave warm and restorative food,” says the Barbara Scott-Goodman in the introduction.

But I think this book is for me, too. I mean, a brisk walk in the city will make me want warm and restorative food. Heck, just sitting here writing this makes me want a good, hearty meal. Besides, Scott-Goodman is from New York, so she knows that her recipes are going to appeal to people who don’t even live near mountains.

So I’m going to ignore the gimmick and consider this a “Best of Winter” cookbook. There are classics like Corn Chowder, Baked Ham, and three different kinds of Chili. There are a couple of new things I want to try, such as Stir-fried Coleslaw and Wild Mushroom, Chicken and Orzo Soup. And all times of day are covered, including a section on cocktails and warm drinks. Mulled Pinot Noir and Brandy sounds good from my house in the city, but perhaps it’ s extra-special on the side of a mountain. I’m going to skip the Rum Raisin Cider, though. I’m not a raisin fan, so I’ll thank you to leave it out of my drinks.

The photography depicts dishes in the book, but also idyllic chalets, buried to the rafters in snow. As long as I could get out to get my groceries, I think that would be a pretty fine way to spend the winter. Just don’t ask me to go skiing.

Book Review: The Best Casserole Cookbook Ever

The Best Casserole Book Ever by Beatrice Ojakangas

Reviewed by Chris Garbutt

The cover of this book goes against the usual “food porn” type – you know what I’m talking about. Photos on most cookbooks or food magazines are designed to make you slobber lustily after a perfectly staged dish. Here, we see a casserole almost empty, giving the feel of a meal well enjoyed.

It worked on me. My memories of casseroles are not pleasant. In my childhood, they were mushy excuses to get rid of leftovers – throw them all in a pot, maybe with some canned tomato soup or chicken broth, and bake. Ugh – I can still taste the canned peas and nearly dissolved carrots.

Times have changed. Beatrice Ojankangas defines casseroles as broadly as imaginable. I never really thought about it, but I guess a casserole is any meal cooked all in one dish. Here’s the Wikipedia entry.

I’m going to have to jettison my stereotypes. How about a Swedish Lingonberry Pancake Casserole? Or a Black Bean Tortilla?  This is not your mother’s casserole cookbook. The book brags more than 500 recipes, which means you could have a different comfort dish every day for the entire winter, and that includes breakfast, lunch and dinner (and dessert!).

For some reason I was attracted to the vegetarian chapter. I considered the Spiced Brown Rice and Vegetables, or the Black Bean and Red Pepper Casserole before finally settling on the Barley and Mushroom Casserole. There was little prep, and the joy of the casserole is that once its in the oven, you can go off and do other things while it bakes. The flavour of the mushrooms got a boost from homemade chicken stock (the recipe calls for vegetable stock, so it’s veggie-friendly), and a touch of white truffle oil, which I’d bought for another dish last week. And if you haven’t tried truffle oil, do it. It costs $10-20 a bottle, but a few drops will fill your mouth, and it’s amazing with mushroom dishes, or if you need to liven up a chicken breast or piece of fish.

It took a little longer than expected – either too much stock or not enough barley, so the liquid didn’t absorb the way I had hoped. But well worth the wait.

Comfort food is my default. If I’m stuck for what to cook, it’s usually a soup, stew, chili or maybe a roast chicken. But because of my particular past, casseroles were never on my radar. That has all changed.

Monday Review: The No-Nonsense Guide to World Food

The No-Nonesense Guide to World Food by Wayne Roberts

Reviewed by Stephanie Dickison

This  is a serious tome about the food crisis that we are currently facing.

And though it could be a dry, discouraging read, it is gripping and fascinating – and wouldn’t you agree rather timely?

If there was ever a time to read a book like this, it’s now.  Roberts lays out the stark situation of conflicting food systems, the role of government, food sovereignty and other issues with aplomb and heart.

He gives the vital statistics, but explains what they mean (for those of us not as academically savvy as those compiling the stats), thank goodness.  He breaks down documents and organizations in layman’s terms so that we, the regular citizen can follow along.  He tells us where our food is coming from and how much it REALLY costs.  The truths that he reveals are staggering:

- About 170 million food producers are child labourers, which speaks to the poverty and mistreatment subsidizing low food prices

- The global advertising budget for the food industry in 2001 was $40 billion, which is more money than the gross domestic product of 70 percent of the world’s countries.

This is a sobering look at how we are living and eating and what we should be doing to improve our lives and those of others.  There is hope though.  As Roberts writes,

“The food scene in many cities is full to busting with experiments by social entrepreneurs, co-ops, community agencies and non-governmental organizations.  Community gardens, green roofs, community kitchens, farm-to-school meal programs, Seedy Saturday heritage seed exchanged, farmers’ markets, cool restaurant districts, slow food banquets, food policy councils and city food strategies are the talk of the town.”

The importance of this book is clear – the change has to come from us – the individual first – before we can change the world.

I’m in.  How about you?

Monday Review: Healthy Sin Foods

Healthy Sin Foods: Decadence Without Guilt by Dr. Joey Shulamn, DC, Nutritionist

Reviewed by Stephanie Dickison

Although almost half the book is filled with recipes, I would not call this a cookbook.

However, I would call it handy.

See, I think that most of us eating and cooking these days are looking for excitement and variety in our meals but don’t necessarily want to give in to fat and calorie-laden ingredients.

So I can see the enticement of this book – show us the goods and tell us how to make ‘em better so we don’t miss the stuff that’s bad for us.

And being a nutritionist, Shulman breaks downs what complex carbs, sprouted grains and powerful proteins are so that you first get yourself eating right.  She also gives you a Healthy Sins Food Grocery List that includes dark chocolate chips, avocados and black cod, so you get go off to the grocery store right away and get started to a healthier lifestyle.

Her list of Top 50 Superfoods are great to add to your pantry and introduce into your diet if you haven’t already.I mean, black beans, mangoes, mint, goat cheese, strawberries and olives and olive oil are all wonderful additions, don’t you think?

But as much as I appreciated being reminded of the healthy benefits of items such as cayenne pepper, garlic and cabbage, they don’t really come across to me as all that sinful.  Her recipes did though:

Goat cheese, dill, and asparagus omlette, Banana strawberry split, Crab stuffed mushroom, Sweet martini mashed potatoes, Egg foo young wrap, Creamy lasagna, Beef tenderloin stack, Chocolate berry pudding, and Frozen lemon berry torte.

Now that’s more like it!

EATING WORDS – The Art of Food Writing

And in case you still don’t think Toronto is the best city in the world, check this out!

- Stephanie Dickison

Saturday, November 14th 2pm
EATING WORDS – The Art of Food Writing
A Highlight of the Stratford Chef School Gastronomic Writer in Residence Program

A Roundtable Discussion and Q & A
So you want to write about food. Start here with some of the best in the business. Blogs, essays, twitter, websites and oh, yes, books, where to begin! This is a unique opportunity to hear award winning writers from around the world, and here at home, discuss the art of food writing and the future of the craft. Bring your questions and see where the discussion leads us.

Panelists:
* Corby Kummer, 2008-2009 Writer in Residence, senior editor at The Atlantic, author of The Pleasures of Slow Food
* Michael Symons from Australia and the 2009-2010 Writer in Residence, author of the books One Continuous Picnic: A History of Australian Eating and A History of Cooks and Cooking,
* Margaret Webb, author of Apples to Oysters, short listed for Cuisine Canada Book Award
* Ian Brown, Globe and Mail writer, award winning journalist and author of The Boy in the Moon.

Authors books will be available on the day for purchase.
Location: Heliconian Hall, 35 Hazelton Ave
Tickets $25/15 students. Available at The Cookbook Store

Review: Fresh From the Farmer’s Market

Fresh From the Farmer’s Market

By Janet Fletcher

Reviewed by Chris Garbutt

It’s been a slow year for farmer’s markets for me, which is sad, because I’m as crazy about farmer’s markets as any downtown foodie. (Hey, I grew up in rural Southern Ontario, a town which had its own stockyards and vegetable stands  every Saturday, so I come by this love of markets honestly.) But for some reason, I just didn’t incorporate the markets into my routine.

Maybe it was the fact that the one on my way home was located next to an outdoor rink that doubled as a garbage dump during the municipal strike. Still, I was pretty loyal to my favourite grocery store, called Fresh From the Farm, which is just as good.

Janet Fletcher’s Fresh From the Farmer’s Market is all about how to make those markets a regular part of your life. It’s divided seasonally, with recipes based on the ingredients of the moment. Of course, since it’s an American book, you can’t always translate those seasons up here: the winter farmer’s market in most of Canada won’t have much fresh that didn’t grow in a barn or a greenhouse. Citrus and cabbage in winter? Yeah, that’s gonna be coming from south of the border.

It being autumn and all, we tried a seasonal dish – butternut squash risotto with white truffle oil. The squash came from Fresh from the Farm, but I got the arborio rice from Organic Abundance around the corner and the truffle oil* at a nearby Italian shop that sells olive oil, balsamic vinegar and premade pasta dishes. Not exactly a farmer’s market extravaganza, but still a seasonal delight.

And a delight it was. Though I overcooked the squash a little, and the constant stirring gave me cramps in my upper arm, the  final product was worth it. Next stop: winter. Something with citrus and cabbage, I’m sure.

* The first place I went to offered a truffle oil bottle for $51. A little out of my price range. The bottle I settled on was a mere $18.

 

 

UPDATE: Here’s a similar recipe with less stirring and actual truffles!

What’s Your Foodie Profile?

Take Saveur’s quiz to see what kind of foodie you really are.  Then tell us if you agree with the findings!

- Stephanie

Chew On This – If You Had $100, How Would You Spend It On Food?

Opinion # 1 By Stephanie Dickison

This depends on whether I was going to use it to splurge or not.  Would I treat myself and get more extravagant, expensive things that I’m used to or would I try and get the most for my money?

Let’s go with extravagant, just for fun.  Now the question is would I use it for a nice dinner out with my fella or for fantastic luxe grocery items to keep in the kitchen cupboard for little bursts of luxury?

I think I’d go with the dinner, because getting the stuff for at home is a wee bit more practical and this isn’t about being practical for once.

As for where we’d go and what we’d have, that’s a tough one as we’re both food hounds and other than reading, writing, walking and spending time together, going out to eat is one of very favourite things to do.  Also, I’m a restaurant critic so there are certain restaurants that make not make the list over others.

I’d venture to say that we would probably either go for Ethiopian, Brazilian or Portuguese – the thinking being that we can get Italian, Japanese or Vietnamese any ol’ time, but these places are fewer and farther between.

Scott loves Ethiopian a little more than I do because he can’t get enough injera – the airy bread that you pull away with your fingers and acts as a utensil to scoop out other items.  I find it too goopy, but I love the other dishes, so I do just fine with my fingers.

Brazilian is awfully sexy and I love the heartiness and spiciness of it all, but I’m in the mood for Portuguese these days, so that’s what I going with for this experiment.

There are three things that I think are superb standouts in Portuguese cooking – churassco chicken, piri piri sauce, and the way they prepare fish.

I love that somehow the food is infused with intense flavours, but never overpowers the meat, fish or vegetables.  How do they do that?

I would go to a place on College Street that I’ve been only once, but the memories and flavours have remained ever since.

I would start with the Lobster, Octopus & Shrimp in a citrus, tarragon aioli ($20) and then move on to Grilled and Gently roasted Filet of Salted Cod with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Garlic ($38), while I’m sure Scott would get the Nova Scotia Lobster on risotto of saffron ($45).

I know I went over budget there a little, but I’d be happy to kick in the extra.  When you have food this good, it’s worth it.

Of course, Scott and I don’t eat dinners like this often.  Let’s face it – 2 freelance writers in one household does not an expense account make.   On a regular weeknight, I’m making  chicken and pasta and lots of veg, just like you

But it is nice to dream like this every once in awhile.  Especially while I’m off to make soup and sandwiches for dinner.

Opinion # 2 By Chris Garbutt

Every time I go to the grocery store, I wonder where we get the idea that inflation is low. Food prices have been climbing for longer than I can remember now. A hundred bucks almost doesn’t cover a week’s groceries for the two of us.*

But I think I’ll take another approach here. If I had $100 for one meal for two, then I could have a little fun. And the truth is, what I write today could change tomorrow. So with that in mind, here’s what I would do with that money today.

Now that barbecue season has begun, I think I would get grilling. I’m thinking maybe I would get some large scallops from my local fish market – Avenue Seafood on Avenue Road north of Lawrence. Then I would pick up some produce from Organic Abundance on Yonge Street. Perhaps some asparagus, potatoes, onions. Something in season for a salad – spinach, radishes? I would then walk down the street to The Friendly Butcher to pick up some locally raised bacon.

I would keep it simple:

-    Fry up some bacon for crumbling
-    Make a potato pouch with garlic and onions, and put it on the grill
-    Put some salt, pepper and olive oil on the asparagus, and grill that, too
-    Make up the spinach salad, maybe make a dressing with orange juice, shallots and olive oil
-    Sprinkle salt and pepper on the scallops, drizzle some olive oil and grill them
-    Use some of the salad dressing to create an orange sauce for the scallops
-    Crumble the bacon over both the salad and the scallops
-    Put it all on a plate and serve it with my sweetie

Now, that’s how I feel right at this moment. Give me a few seconds and I’ll start again. I’m starting to think that a lobster on that grill might be nice…

I think I’ve come well under a hundred here, so with whatever’s left, I’d buy the best sauvignon blanc I can find. What would you do?

* Well, I eat a lot of organic.

Heat Seeking

By Stephanie Dickison

“Boomers are triggering a U.S. movement toward hotter and spicier foods. In the past nine years, the consumption of chili peppers in the U.S. has increased 50%.” – via TrendHunter

I don’t know what’s happened this last year, but practically every meal I eat, I wonder how I can make it hotter, kick up the heat a notch – or seven.

It started out very innocently – living with a meat and potatoes guy, we kept a bottle of hot sauce in the fridge door and a mostly forgotten jar of hot peppers in the back behind the bread and assorted exotic condiments. I used them occasionally on my eggs or a burger, but left them mostly to my fella.

Then I started reviewing restaurants. Portuguese Piri Piri and Mexican dishes laced with peppers were a part of my job and somehow I came to build up a tolerance for spicier fare.

And over this last year, I have been adding red, gold and green heat to whatever I can.

In fact, it’s so out of hand that a couple of nights ago, my fella and I were out and wanted to grab a quick bite to eat. We went for sushi where I ordered a spicy tuna roll and a salmon roll. I added wasabi to the spicy tuna, which Scott had already remarked on its incredible heat. While I did find it hot, it didn’t stop me from adding wasabi to it. And while I didn’t break out into a sweat, I did get a stomach ache not long after.

When I go grocery shopping now, I have moved from the “mild” sauces, skipped the “medium” category completely and gone straight for the “hot,” sometimes making it too hot even for Scott, the man who can down a euphoric basket of Scotch Bonnet drummies with just a mist of sweat and always a smile on his face.

I am convinced that because I didn’t grow up with anything spicy at home (Worcestershire was the hottest thing we had), it is simply a building up of my palate through experiences at restaurants and the introduction to foods and sauces that are not just hot, but actually taste good.

This is why I now get hot peppers on my burgers and sandwiches, Brooklyn Petro (a company of 2 guys who wanted heat with flavour) on my eggs and my curries and stir fries at home have gone from mild-mannered to rock the Kasbah hot. Even my Mom who can’t even stand the heat of ginger has been coming along on the heat ride, saying that she enjoys the extra kick now and again.

This shows me that really anyone can build up their palate and like getting used to things you don’t like and then introducing them into your meals, can really change the way you feel about them. And often times, they become your favourite go-to item.

Recently, I was picking out a salsa and decided that I would go for hot, as medium is usually pretty mild, and I was in the mood for a little heat.

After dinner and cleaning up the kitchen, my fella and I tucked into the couch to watch a movie. I brought out the chips and salsa and pressed “play.”

Without much thought, I reached for a chip, swept it briskly through the salsa and put most of it in my mouth.

The phrase “hotter than hell” doesn’t quite do it justice. Tears squeezed out of my eyes, liquid gushed from my nose and my mouth felt engulfed in a searing heat that seemed to increase in intensity as seconds passed.

I’d say that my palate has sufficiently has gone up a notch since then.

Last night I had some hot wings and realized that I was putting hot sauce on them.

Uh oh.